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Ivory Bunny's Bun-fu dojo

Welcome to the dojo - please leave your footwear outside and make a respectful bow to the Kamii when you enter.

The rules are:

Only practice weapons may be used. I don't care if you are a Ewok Jedi, please don't use your Lightsabre in this dream!

Fighting may only take place within the walls of the dojo. There are picnic facilities near the lake and a few nice relaxing areas to wind down in. Please don't disturb these areas with swordfights!

Consenting parties only please!

Dragons - please refrain from flame grilling anyone...


How to run a fight

Due to the lack of a formal combat system in Furcadia, here's a very simple one we'll use instead. All rolls must be made in sight of your opponent, and the instructor who is supervising the fight (if one is available).

Firstly, and once per session only, you will need to roll 1d6. This is a "how sharp are you today" roll. If you roll a 1, you are a bit off form today - you will be at -1 to speed all day. If you roll a 6 you are really fizzing - you get a +1 all day instead!

Some species are naturally faster or slower than others - Cats and Rabbits are fast, and get a +1. Equines and Dragons are big and slower, so they always get a -1 to their speed.

If you are fighting with bare hands/paws against an opponent using a hand weapon, you have a -1 to speed (because they will tend to strike first). If both fighters have weapons of roughly the same size (like two bare hand fighters, or a sword vs a mace), ignore this.

Fight sequence

The furre with the highest speed may attack first. Roll 1d6. 1-3 is a clean miss - 4-6 is a hit.

The defending furre may choose to parry or dodge. Roll 1d6. 1-3 is a failure to parry or dodge, while 4-6 is a success. You must declare which you want to do before rolling. A parry is easier, and you get a +1 to your roll. A dodge has other benefits (see below) but doesn't get the +1.

A successful parry or dodge means the hit was negated and the defender takes no damage (for the difference between dodging and parrying, see below!)

If the dodge or parry failed, the defender is hit! The defender Immediately rolls 1d6. On a 1-2, the blow was enough to knock you down. Lie down, you've lost this one! On a 3-4 the blow winded you and you lose your next attack, though you can still dodge or parry. On a 5-6 it was a glancing blow or you were tough enough to ignore it! Big Furre species (Horses and Dragons) get a +1 to this roll, while small Furre's (Mice, some others) get a -1.

After the result has been worked out, the defender gets to attack (unless she's winded or knocked down of course).

Parry vs Dodge

If you don't want the added complexity, you may ignore this.

A Dodge tends to put your opponent of balence, so they are at -1 for their next defense. This makes it easier to counter attack them.

A Parry is easier to do - if you elected to parry instead of dodge, you get a +1 to the defense roll.

Example

Ivory Bunny is duelling Markus, an equine friend. Neither of them rolled any modifier for being particularly sharp or slow today, but they do get the speed modifiers for their species. Ivory Bunny is a rabbit, so she gets a +1 to speed, while Markus gets a -1 because of his size. Ivory Bunny is bare handed (using Bun-fu) while Markus is using a practice shortsword. The use of a weapon against her bare paws negates the rabbit's speed advantage, but Markus' bulk is still against him, so Ivory will attack first.

The first round, Ivory Bunny hops forward and strikes with her paw. She rolls a 4 and hits. Markus says "i'll parry" and rolls a 5, adding the +1 from the parry and easily brushing Ivory's paw aside.

Markus counterattacks, swinging. He rolls a 4 and hits. Ivory declares she will dodge, but rolls a 2 and fails. Immediately rolling 1d6 again, she manages a 3 , and is winded by the blow to the ribs. Winded, she won't be able to attack back, so Markus goes again.

Markus presses his advantage, stepping in swinging. He rolls a 1 this time though, and blows it.

Ivory recovers and can now attack again. She rolls a 4. Markus rolls a 2 on his parry this time, and takes a bunny kick in the stomach! He rolls for damage and gets a 1. Even with the +1 for being big his total of 2 isn't enough to soak it up. He lands on his butt on the mat, and signals his surrender while he gasps for breath.



Descriptions

There are no fancy animations in Furcadia for this (though some people are working on some!) so I suggest you move around the mat a bit and describe the moves you are making. Some flavour text like "I dodge to the side and counter with a spinning leg sweep" is much more interesting than "I roll a 4, then a 5".

Getting better with practice

I'll set up a skills ladder to publish on the site when this has been running a while. The ladder will consist of a list that shows how good each participant is for the purpose of sparring. For example:

Markus (using shortsword) Level +1, 3xps

The skill levels work like this:

Every time you fight (win or lose) you may get better. Roll 1d6 at the end of a session (not after every fight!) If you roll a 6, you learned something. This will be an experience point. Ten experience points gets you a level of skill. Each level gives you a bonus +1 to attacks, parries and dodges (but not to speed or rolls to soak up damage).

Only fights witnessed by an instructor count for experience. You'll be awarded a coloured patch or belt to add to your description with each level gained. Of course, if you want, you could set up your own skills tree with your own instructors for when I'm not on. I don't mind anyone else using the facilities...

Level 1 - Yellow patch

Level 2 - Green patch

Level 3 - Red patch

Level 4 - Blue patch

Level 5 - Silver patch

Level 6 - Gold patch

Sparring between fighters more than a couple of levels apart is not advisable using this system!

If you want to become an instructor, email Ivory here or whisper to me in game.

Furcadia!